13 listopada 2018 07:39

Adam Ondra – pokonuje OS historyczne „Just Do It”!

Adam Ondra dokonał przejścia OS słynnej i ważnej historycznej drogi. W tym pięknym stylu padło Just Do It 8c+ (Smith Rock, USA).

Ściana Monkey Face, którą biegnie “Just Do It” (fot. FB Paige Claassen)

Just Do It, projekt Alana Wattsa na Monkey Face (Smith Rock), jako pierwszy przeszedł w 1992 roku Francuz Jean Baptiste Tribout. Ustanowił tym samym pierwsze 8c+ za Oceanem.

Ta ponad 30-metrowa, efektowna droga była niezwykle ważna dla amerykańskiego środowiska wspinaczkowego. Pierwszym Amerykaninem, który powtórzył Just Do It był Chris Sharma w 1997 roku. Także w tym roku właśnie Sharma wytyczył Necessary Evil, drugą 8c+ w Ameryce Północnej.

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Just Do It 8c+ was just an incredible experience. I wanted to this route just so much since I first read the name of the route and its history (being 8 years old). Then I was finally at Smith, not really sure if I was ready for it or not. Failure on my onsight try on "To Bolt or Not To Be" 8b+ did not give me much confidence either. But after taking a restday, I felt good and I was psyched. The only concern was if the weather was suitable. It was cold (5 °C) and really windy. But I made a good warm up on the other side of the crag at Aggro Gully, climbing Aggro Monkey 8a and Bad Man 8b+ onsight and I moved up to the Monkey Face, where the route "Just Do It" is located. It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off. Friction felt great, I felt strong but this relentless wind did not want stop. In every single restpoint I was trying to warm up my fingers, but my success was limited. Getting higher and higher, the pressure grew, but on the very top it got eventually that hard that I could completely forget about everything, even the cold and I somehow made it to the top at the absolute limit. There was a nice crowd including Alan Watts who bolted this beauty back in 1989. Thanks for that and thanks for the encouragement. Stay tuned for the video. @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon Pic by @bernardo_gimenez

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on

Dal Adama Ondry był to ważny i długo wyczekiwany punkt amerykańskiego tripu:

Just Do It to było niesamowite doświadczenie. Chciałem przejść tę drogę od momentu, gdy w wieku 8 lat usłyszałem jej nazwę i historię.

Przejście Ondry pokazuje tempo rozwoju wspinania sportowego. Ekstrem sprzed 26 lat zostaje pokonany bez znajomości. I choć są już przejścia bez znajomości dróg trudniejszych, to nadal 8c+ OS jest dostępne tylko dla wybranych.

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