10 grudnia 2014 12:19

Adam Ondra did the second ascent of “Made in Poland” VI.8 (9a) in Podzamcze

In early december Adam Ondra has visited Podzamcze. During his short trip (only one day) he did second ascent of Made in Poland VI.8/9a (Łukasz Dudek, 2010) on Wielka Cima. It was his 100 route 9a! We asked Adam about his impressions of the area.

Podzamcze is one of the best areas in polish, north Jura. The are some of the most difficult routes in the country. Except Made in Poland, for example famous Pandemonium on Gołębnik, probably the first 9a in Poland (Rafał Moucka, 2001), repeated by Łukasz Dudek this autumn, 13 years[!] after the first ascent.

Adam Ondra po zrobieniu swojej setnej drogi 9a - "Made in Poland" (fot. FB Petr Pavlíček)

Adam Ondra on the top of Wielka Cima, Podzamcze (fot. FB Petr Pavlíček)

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Dorota Dubicka / wspinanie.pl: So, it was a little surprised to hear about your visit in Podzamcze, on Great Cima, on the cold, almost winter day :) I’m not sure if you know, but you were the second person to climb Made in Poland (by Łukasz Dudek from 2010). What were your impressions of the route?

Adam Ondra: The tower is just impressive. I had not expected that much, I almost lost my breath when I saw it. Even though it is limestone, it is totally sandstone-looking. The climbing again was again a little suprising. It was extremely hard to deal with the footholds, the rock is frictionless and offers few footholds. At the same time, for an vertical route it is not only technical, but powerful at the same time. And requires much moreendurance than it seems. It is definitely unique line and i will rank it quite high in terms of quality compared to other 9a’s.

Petr Pavlíček wrote on FB – the conditions was too cold and the route was too hard to read for the on-sight…

The problem is the colour of the rock – I couldn’t see any holds, everything is just white. If something is almost impossible to onsight, then it is this route. The weather was acceptable, it was cold but dry, a little humid deep inside the pockets. But it was too cold for onsighting, as I need more time to for climbing the route without previous knowledge.

Adam na "Made in Poland" VI.8 (fot. FB Petr Pavlíček)

Adam climb “Made in Poland” VI.8 (fot. FB Petr Pavlíček)

Why did you chose this particular route? Have you been planning this trip for a while or was it a spontaneous decision?

It was quite spontaneous. I have been planning to make 100th route 9a and more for quite a lot of time, but it was always a question of lack of time or bad weather. And I was thinking about making one day trip somewhere close to my home and Pdzamcze came on my mind.

It was your 100 route 9a – what does it mean to you? The numbers…

I can’t believe I have already done so many of them! Honestly, 9a still feels like serious route, it is not walk in a park. And doing it in 8 years since 2006 is not that bad. I mean it wasn’t my life-long goal, but it is nice to reason to celebrate.

You like discovering new places, dont you? What interesting, special, have you find here, in polish Jura? ;)

It is totally impresive to look at, especially Podzamcze. On the other hand, climbing is hard there. Invisible holds, bad friction, stiff grading… But it has its beauty, because it is not just simple ladder of jugs. And that is why I liked it a lot. It offers definitely unique style of climbing.

I’m not sure, if you know, we have more really interesting, hard routes here. There are a few projects in grades about 9a+, more new 9a. For example Pandemonium on Gołębnik (not so far from Cima, Podzamcze), the first 9a in Poland from 2001, after 13 years(!) repeated by Łukasz Dudek this autumn. Would you be tempted to come and try our routes again?

Sure it would be nice to go back there to see more, since the highway to Katowice was built, it is prefect destination for a short trip to boost my mood while training indoors and going to school.

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Routes on Wielka Cima.




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