12 sierpnia 2011 15:51

Orbayu 8c+/9a repeated!

Nicolas Favresse and Adam Pustelnik* have repeated Orbayu 8c+/9a (Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain), which is claimed to be the hardest big wall climb in the world. 

Naranjo de Bulnes
(ph. Adam Pustenik)

Orbayu was established in 2009 by the Eneko and Iker Pou brothers. The route is a combination of preexisting climbs with some new terrain. First, it leads through four brand new pitches of the overhanging Naranjo de Bulnes wall, then it joins Mediterrano Route (Gallego/Ortiz 1980, 550 m, A3 6a) sharing with it next 6 pitches and finally it tops out along the last 3 pitches of a local classic – Rabada-Navarro (Rabada/Navarro 1962, 700 m, 6b).

The Pou brothers equipped the first three pitches with bolts and on the hardest pitch of the route (the first pitch after joining Mediterrano Route) they added two more bolts. The protection of the part shared with the aid climb is mixed: pitons, leadheads, old bolts.

Trying "Orbayu"
(ph. Adam Pustenik)

Initially, the route was done by Nicolas, who lead all pitches. Next day, Orbayu was done in the same style by Adam. They are both hesitant as far as the grade is concerned – their opinion will be made public in a few days.


Adam Pustelnik is 29 years old. In 2003 he climbed three hard 8c+ in Frankenjura: InfinityBah Bah Black SheepShangri-la. He was the first Polish climber on that level.

After that he has started bigwall climbing. He took part in expeditions to Karakoram (Charakusa big-wall action), Kyrgyzstan (New Polish Route in Ak-Su Valley), Yosemite and Patagonia.

In 2009 he climbed the famous multipitch route Silbergeier 8b. Last year Adam repeated Action Directe 9a, legendary route in Frankenjura.

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