2 sierpnia 2007 08:01

Charakusa big-wall action

A strong Belgian-Polish team consisting of: brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favrese, Sean Villanueva (all Belgium) and Adam Pustelnik (Poland) has spent more than a month in Charakusa Valley with a goal to open new routes on beautiful granite spires. And they managed two major sends.


Charakusa Valley
(fot. Jimy Chin/jimmychinphotography.com)

Their first objective was an unclimbed pillar of Pik 6615m in the west ridge of  K7. They tackled it in big-wall style – bringing portaledges and hauling loads. The 1000-meter/26 pitch route went free at 7b. The team spent 16 days on the wall, strugling with bad weather and snowfalls, which eventually stopped them at the end of the rocky pillar, leaving 200m of a snowy ridge to the summit. They tried to wait  out bad weather, but eventually were forced to finish their route there and rapell down.  The name for the climb is Badal – which in Urdu means „partly clouded”.


K7
(fot. Marko Prezelj/mark.amebis.si)

After resting a couple of days in the base camp the four men team chose to go for one more climb, light’n’fast this time. The goal was the right side of the central pillar of K7 (6950m). They made it in one long push, which lasted 39 hours basecamp to basecamp. Their route, Ledgeway to heaven is 1300 meters/28 pitches long and went almost all free at 7b+ 1xA0.  They moved in good style, leaving just a single bolt and a single piton on the route. This is probably the first ascent of the pillar. If that is confirmed they propose name Nafees Khup for it.

You can check out the expedition’s web site: xpedition.belclimb.be.

Paweł Pustelnik (HiMountain Team)




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