11 kwietnia 2007 08:01

Arte de Malaria – new Polish route in Mexico

Polish team, Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski spent almost four months in Mexico. Their trip was very fruitful. They did one hard repeat and established new route.

At first they redpointed the route Subiendo el Arcoiris 5.13b (300m) in the Basaseachic National Park in Chihuahua state, Mexico. Two greatest waterfalls of South and Middle America, Piedra Volada (450m) and Basaseachic (250m) are situated nearby.


"Subiendo el Arcoiris"
(photo David Kaszlikowski/Studiowspin.com.pl)

The route was first climbed free in 2001 by Stefan Glowacz, with Klaus Fengler photographing. Holger Heuber and Gunda Fruhwald climbed just behind Glowacz, but Heuber was unable to free Pitch 3. However, Kurt Albert and Hans Martin Gotz repeated the line only a few days later; it has seen only a handful of free ascents since.

Glowacz and Albert have deemed the overhanging rhyolite pillar „a superb five star classic,” for its exposure, several difficult pitches (6c, 7a+, 7c, 7a, 6c, 6b+, 8a, 6b, 7a, 6c+) and spectacular views of Basaseachic, a 250-meter waterfall.


"Arte de Malaria"
(photo David Kaszlikowski/Studiowspin.com.pl)

After that Eliza i David moved to Huasteca National Park, relatively close to Potrero Chico, to find their own virgin wall. They spent eight days during the end of March bolting the route ground-up. The route called Arte de Malaria (7b+ max, 300 m, 10 pitches) climbs through a previously unclimbed wall. Pitches: 6b, 6c+, 7b, 5, 7b, 7b, 7a+, 7b+, 6b, 6b.

Mysza

Źródła: PZA, Alpinist

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