|
No doubt, the greatest event of the season and the month-and-a-half stay at Rodellar was Kinga Ociepka (Five Ten) leading Geminis 8c [Rodellar part 1]. However, Geminis was not the only route that was done during this summer - especially when you remember that Kinga herself admitted that her success came rather easily and swiftly, so there was quite a lot of time left for some more hard climbing.
Kinga Ociepka redpointing "Geminis" 8c
(photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl)
Kinga Ociepka redpointing "La Belle Inconue" 8b/b+
(photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl)
While resting (mainly psychologically) between attempts on Geminis , Kinga dealt also with Botanics - an endurance 8b in the Ventanas Sector. Next, it was turn for "a beautiful stranger" that is La Belle Inconue 8b/b+ and what is worth mentioning - the key sequence on the route turned out to be so difficult and specific that two proficient male climbers, who assisted Kinga on this climb, were not able to tackle the moves. And Kinga? Well, she just flowed effortlessly through the holds, although she kept complaining about her heel-hooking being (in her opinion) not smooth enough.
Kinga Ociepka redpointing "La Belle Inconue" 8b/b+
(photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl)
Although this year Kinga focused on hard redpoints, still she maintains the position of the best female onsight climber in Poland - she climbed in this style three 8a routes: A Crabita, Coreador de la muerte and earlier Coliseum. To this list she added a valuable flash of Aporia 8a+.
Kinga Ociepka redpointing "Botanics" 8b
(photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl)
Kinga Ociepka onsighting "A Crabita" 8a
(photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl)
Kinga's highlights:
- El coreador de la muerte 8a OS
- Coliseum 8a OS
- A Crabita 8a OS
- La Magnatina 8a+ Flash
- Aporia 8a+ Flash
- Gladiator 8b RP
- Botanics 8b RP
- La belle inconue 8b/b+ RP
- Geminis 8c RP
Kinga Ociepka onsighting "A Crabita" 8a (photo Maciek Oczko - Marmot Team/wspinanie.pl) |
