10 października 2010 23:10

Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!

Polish climber Adam Pustelnik repeated Action Directe 9a, legendary route in Frankenjura.


Adam Pustelnik climbing "Action Directe" (fot. Tony Cappucino)

Action Directe was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. So far only thirteen (including Pustelnik) people have been able to follow in his footsteps:

Pustelnik is 28 years old. Few years ago he was very active sport climber. In 2003 he climbed three hard 8c+ in Frankenjura: Infinity, Bah Bah Black Sheep, Shangri-la. He was the first Polish climber on that level.

After that he has started bigwall climbing. He took part in expeditions to Karakoram (Charakusa big-wall action), Kyrgyzstan (New Polish Route in Ak-Su Valley), Yosemite and Patagonia.

Last year Pustelnik announced his project "300% above the norm". He wanted to climb three completely different routes:

  • Silbergeier 8b, 200m (Ratikon)
  • Action Directe 9a (Frankenjura)
  • Royal Flush VI 5.12c, A2, 1350 m (Fitz Roy, Patagonia)

The first part of the project, route Silbergeier, Pustelnik climbed in July 2009. He lead all the pitches of that difficult multipitch route.

At the begging of the 2010 Pustelnik was in Patagonia trying to freeclimb Royal Flush. The weather was terrible and expedition returned without success.

Pustelnik is the third Polish climber who climbed 9a route. The first one is Łukasz Dudek and the second Mateusz Haładaj.

Wojciech Słowakiewicz

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